In the morning Norm went to the front desk to ask about a cock fighting ring he found online. They were not familiar with it, but a bellboy standing nearby came over and said there was one close by and in fact there were fights today. He offered to take us, so Norm set a 2:30 meeeting time when he was off work.

At 230 we hop onto our scooter and follow Reno to the cockpit. While in the parking lot we can already hear the roar of bets taking place before the next fight.

The history of cockfighting goes back to classical times when the Greeks before battle stimulated the warriors to brave and valorous deeds. The pitting of cocks against each other was introduced to Greece by the Persians, but apparently originated in Southeast Asia.

Cockfighting is not just about the betting it is very meaningful to those involved. Owners spend hours and years caring for their birds, studying breeding lines, and networking trades and reciprocity.

Enetering the cockpit, the passion is clear. The energy is crazy!

Although the energy is subdued between fights, it does not last long. Once two roosters are introduced to the ring the noise level and energy erupts into organized chaos. Other than the women working the concession, I am the only female here. So the noise generated is high level testosterone from men spewing bets around the ring.

Cockfighting has been a part of Reno's world since he was a young boy, when his uncle had roosters he would help care for. Reno is raising a rooster of his own now.

Speaking with him and other owners they speak of owning roosters bred to fight with pride. For two years roosters are raised and treated like part of the family. They feed, nurture house and train them.

How do you train a rooster? One way is on a makeshift treadmill. You hold the rooster just above cardboard and let it run on it to strengthen its legs.

For about 2 years you raise and train and then enter it. Once in a fight your rooster is either a champion or suffers instant death. Death is quick as the roosters are fitted with a slasher, which is a sharp pointy blade taped onto one of their spurs as a weapon.

After the fight, bets are paid, and another round is ready to begin.

Reno was so excited to take his first tourists to the fights. He was happily snapchatting to friends. He was also eagar to place bets for us, so we gave him money to do so. Watching him bet was an art in itself.

After a few rounds of betting and for me people watching, he took us below to watch a rooster being fitted with a slasher, and then we left the chaos behind.

Reno wanted to introduce us to his family. They live behind the restaurant where his wife works, so we followed him there to grab some supper. We met his wife who was working and his 2-year-old son. We bought him supper, and I found it sweet that he ordered shrimp so he could share it with his son.

Although we wanted to return to our hotel on our own he insisted on taking us back.

Once back we thanked him for the tour and gave him our winnings. He earned them after all. He was emotional, appreciative, and said he will happily spend it on his son.

I can definitely say cockfighting is not my thing, and difficult to watch, but is just another cultural activity that we have experienced, and made someone else happy in the process. Reno kept saying how honored and excited he was to have the opportunity to show us something so important to him.

Cockpit

Letting the birds peck before the fight

Saying goodbye